Engine Ice?

J

JMOORE330

PR Addict
Since ive been considering harescrambles and trail ridin, does engine ice honestly truley help keep the engine cooler longer? At 20.00+ per container i aint usin it unless it truley does something. I have always used the Honda coolant in the blue container on anything. But would try the ice if people think it actually works.
 
It does help, though I use water wetter. Started using it when my son ran Cobras in the 50 class. Actually helps in the high revving engines like that, so I figured it couldn't hurt my 450.
 
There is definitely more cooling with these types of fluids. You will definitely benefit from it more doing this type riding.
If it keeps you from boiling over just one time I would say its worth it. Also consider a recovery bottle if you are having issues.
 
JMOORE330 said:
Since ive been considering harescrambles and trail ridin, does engine ice honestly truley help keep the engine cooler longer? At 20.00+ per container i aint usin it unless it truley does something. I have always used the Honda coolant in the blue container on anything. But would try the ice if people think it actually works.
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I use Redline's Water Wetter. I won't use Engine Ice because the owner is a A$$.
 
Original44 said:
I use Redline's Water Wetter. I won't use Engine Ice because the owner is a A$$.
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haha ok BUT do you think it works better? Say if the owner wasnt an a$$??? So now i know these types of products work, now lets start the debate on WHICH IS BETTER? WETTER OR ICE?
 
JMOORE330 said:
haha ok BUT do you think it works better? Say if the owner wasnt an a$$??? So now i know these types of products work, now lets start the debate on WHICH IS BETTER? WETTER OR ICE?
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A friend of mine ran both in his drag car. He is super thorough and said his temperature gage read about the same for both. He said both ran cooler than just regular radiator coolant.
 
A 1.6# radiator cap will cost $20 and beat all the liquid products...

I had water pushing out of my 08RMZ450 and now my 06 RM250 did it a few weeks back. Put the 1.6 cap on and shazam! Fixed!

That way you can use regular antifreeze and skip the high cost fluids...

Just my 2 cents
 
Changing the cap doesn't keep anything cooler. It just holds it in at a higher pressure. If you use better cooling products you don't need a higher pressure cap.

For me, I'd rather my engine run cooler and not overflow, than run hotter and not overflow.
 
flyin polack said:
A 1.6# radiator cap will cost $20 and beat all the liquid products...

I had water pushing out of my 08RMZ450 and now my 06 RM250 did it a few weeks back. Put the 1.6 cap on and shazam! Fixed!

That way you can use regular antifreeze and skip the high cost fluids...

Just my 2 cents
Click to expand...

SO if i get that cap AND the fancy coolant, im doing pretty much all i can for that. Do fancy aftermarket water pumps really help or do anything at all other than look cool?
 
Tried all kinds of coolant. Engine Ice, distilled water and water wetter, and others.m Even installed Fluidine radiators on 450. 250 even has a Boysen water pump....the all did no good. I suspect is was not hot...just pushing coolant. I have no temp gauge so I won't know if it was hot like others will not know. Pushing coolant is usually the symptom that tells a rider the bike is "hot" which is not always the facts.
 
Engine Ice definately works better to keep the bike less hot than conventional antifreeze on my 85 TriZ 250 2 stroke.

Radiator cap has no effect on temperature, just the pressure at which coolant will blow out. The idea is to release pressure under control somewhere besides blowing out the weakest link in the cooling system.
 
Pit261 said:
Changing the cap doesn't keep anything cooler. It just holds it in at a higher pressure. If you use better cooling products you don't need a higher pressure cap.

For me, I'd rather my engine run cooler and not overflow, than run hotter and not overflow.
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Whos to say his 4 year old cap isnt bad. you could take it to a radiator shop and have it tested for free in most cases. i would replace the cap and keep the hondaline coolant. i knew the owner of engine ice when i lived in fl and hes not an ass in my book. i used it for years because i got it for free from him. when i didnt i started using the honda coolant because i got that for free from the shop i worked at and raced for. i noticed no difference. a stant 1.6 bar cap is the best way to keep your bike from pushing coolant out. also if you have an 09 450 honda have the shop change the mapping with the hrc tool to a richer map or 11 spec and it will run cooler and not be as jerky in the woods. i raced an 09 for a year in HS also.
 
JMOORE330 said:
SO if i get that cap AND the fancy coolant, im doing pretty much all i can for that. Do fancy aftermarket water pumps really help or do anything at all other than look cool?
Click to expand...

They circulate the coolant faster and more efficently, or are desinged to at least. if your fluid is moving faster then it has less time in the radiators to cool down. doesnt make sense to me, i never tried one. the real benefit would be if it was less taxing on the engine, therefore freeing up hp to make the bike faster. but that wouldnt help a cooling or over heating issue. aslo forgot in the post above that a recovery tank is a good idea, i use one on my ktm.
 
dwinship463 said:
They circulate the coolant faster and more efficently, or are desinged to at least. if your fluid is moving faster then it has less time in the radiators to cool down. doesnt make sense to me, i never tried one. the real benefit would be if it was less taxing on the engine, therefore freeing up hp to make the bike faster. but that wouldnt help a cooling or over heating issue. aslo forgot in the post above that a recovery tank is a good idea, i use one on my ktm.
Click to expand...

I added a Boyesen water pump impeller and used a temp gauge. Runs significantly cooler. Moves more coolant thru the system more effeciently. you can see the difference from the old impeller to the new. Id replace the cap with the stock. Just for good practice.
 
OK, I'm pulling rank for just a second. If you understand what a Mollier diagram is, you are excused.

A higher pressure cap allows the temperature of the water in the engine to go higher, along with the
pressure of the water in the engine going higher, before opening and releasing pressure. That release
of pressure will allow the temperature/pressure to remain the same, higher T and P, until you run out
of water/steam.

A higher pressure cap keeps the blow off of excess pressure at a higher pressure and temperature.
I'm sure, though I don't have a curve at those pressure/temperatures handy, that the temperature
is still perfectly fine in a modern MXer. It may be only a fraction of a degree, based on this curve
I have here with far too little resolution in the range of interest.

Water wetter and similar stuff has a different enthalpy curve though I've never seen one published
and don't want to look today. Antifreeze mix I know has a higher boiling point than pure water, allowing
that pressure/temperature curve to move down in enthalpy so that at a given pressure, the temperature
is lower. I bet the water wetter stuff does the same but hope they have a mechanical engineer on
staff.

You're welcome and no, unless you have a license to practice engineering in the state of Ohio,
I'm not interested in arguing with you about it.
 
Oh, and for conductive heat transfer, yes a faster flow rate will move more heat.
So that unless you are cavitating or something else weird, a higher capacity water
pump will move more heat out of the engine and to the radiator.
 
No degree and no argument about the above on the Cap and pump issue.
Just FYI for anyone interesred.
The New type fluids like Engine Ice actually on a molecular level create more surface contact with the metal components in the engine. this helps increase heat transfer to the fluid from the engine and aids in cooling when in the radiator. If you look at how regular antifreeze reacts to aluminum or other metal its sort of like water on wax paper, It kinda beads up. The High tech stuff sort of just melts like it has no surface tension to it and flows more into the poors of the metal providing a greater surface area. So it cools better. Similar to the same concept of crushed ice cooling your drink quicker than chunks of ice.
I know this because a few years back I did some research myself and if you have both available and put a drop of each on a piece of aluminum you will see for yourself. Even after smushing around with your finger the antifreeze wants to resist and bead up.
Just FYI do with it what you wish!
 
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