RM125 clutch not dis engaging

J

junkyarddog

Noob
1994 RM, new cable, New friction plates, New steel plates, soaked in oil 24 hours, installed per factory manual started with 80 weight oil now using 10 w 40 and making no difference. I've adjusted the cable every possible way I know. I've warmed the motor up gently and I've rung it's neck. I've filed the grooves on the basket and the hub looks fine. this thing is still sticking. it won't stay running in gear, in neutral it's fine. When the motor is off and clutch is pulled in I try to move the bike around and it just drags and locks up the rear wheel. everything seems right, I've completely rebuilt the internals of the engine. did I miss a washer or something? the only other thing is the fiber plates are slotted at an angle as opposed to little squares like a standard clutch. they look like slotted brake roters. any ideas? thanks fellas

p.s. I'm looking for a new cylinder if anyone has one lying around. I've got cash.

Mark
 
If you still have the old plates, measure the width of the entire stack to make sure it's the same as the new stack of plates.

You can also put the old plates back in to see if that fixes the issue, if so then you know it's something with the new plates.
 
you might be onto something. unfortunately I through the old plates out. the ebayer I purchased the clutch from thinks it's something else and not his cheap product. I guess it's my fault for buying cheap. I do have the factory manual but it only gives me the minimum thicknesses. was thinking about trying to shim the pressure plate up with some washers to see if that would do anything. other than a possible clearance with the cover issue I don't say any other problems, think it might be worth a try?

Mark
 
See pic. Keep in mind this is not precise science here, just ballpark to see if yours are way different. I can squeeze the caliper so it measures 29.50 or let it relax and it measures about 30.

IMG_2006.jpg
 
that's about what I'm getting. is it possible that I just have a super grabby clutch? I took the pressure off while spinning the wheel, took one finger and pressed it against the clutch pack and instant resistance change both hub and basket tried to rotate. I really appreciate your help. this is my first 2 stroke and I'm hooked on it. I gotta figure it out. it is a brand new clutch but I might have to try a different manufacturer. thanks again.

Mark
 
got the new tusk clutch kit with steels and friction plates, looks exactly the same as the old new clutch and measures the same and no surprise has trouble dis engaging the same. the package said to remove stock components, not sure what but I set it up removing what I thought they where talking about with no luck. I'm gonna take it to Smith road tomorrow and ring it's neck. should be easy since I have no clue how to ride mx. Maybe I can slip the clutch bag enough that it might be less grabby. I'm completely confused.

Mark
 
Well that's no fun. I doubt going and ringing it out will make any difference.

This may sound silly, but did you change the clutch lever/perch assembly by chance? I had that once too now that I think of it -- trouble with clutch after using an aftermarket perch. Put the OEM one back on and it worked fine.
 
Basics

Do you have free play in the clutch lever? How much? If you have too much it wont disengage. Is the lever bent inward? Maybe you are not getting enough pull?
 
I did put a new after market lever/perch compared to what the bike previously had the angles and the pivot point look to me identical. unfortunately the old lever is trashed. I've adjusted the free play exactly how the manual tells me to and even variations.

talonrunner, you think I may have filed the basket poorly? there aren't to many parts and the really can only go in one way. do I need to sand three edges if the basket with some 600 or 800 sand paper? I wouldn't think it would be that sensitive.

I don't know. I'm about over it, calling it quits and dealing with it until it blows up
 
junkyarddog said:
I don't know. I'm about over it, calling it quits and dealing with it until it blows up
Click to expand...

I'd relax a bit. You're missing something here. For starters make sure your clutch cable is good. I've had more clutch issues related to old worn out cables than anything. A bad cable can be very misleading.

Sounds to me like your pressure plate simply isn't lifting enough for some reason. With the side cover off, you should be able to tell by watching the clutch action while you're pulling and releasing, and by turning the engine over by hand while in gear. Keep digging you will find it, and be watchful of other important clues.

Plus you always have Parma Dave somewhat local to you correct?
 
junkyarddog said:
I did put a new after market lever/perch compared to what the bike previously had the angles and the pivot point look to me identical. unfortunately the old lever is trashed. I've adjusted the free play exactly how the manual tells me to and even variations.

talonrunner, you think I may have filed the basket poorly? there aren't to many parts and the really can only go in one way. do I need to sand three edges if the basket with some 600 or 800 sand paper? I wouldn't think it would be that sensitive.

I don't know. I'm about over it, calling it quits and dealing with it until it blows up
Click to expand...


Every time I have hear of this problem, I always find out the outer basket is bad and allows the clutch fibers to stick. Even after filing them down, which doesn't fix anything as the fibers will dig grooves into basket just as fast. Or if the fibers can't slide smooth because the extra play.

Chances are if it was the cable you would know when you are taking it on or off. Extra play in the cable doesn't cause it to stick, instead causes the clutch to not engage. If it were too tight you would never be able to connect the cable up right.
 
Extra play in the cable would ABSOLUTELY cause the clutch to not disengage. But you should see that in a cable not adjusting properly.

If you filed the outer basket smooth your fine for now but how did the inner hub look? If it is grooved the metal plates wont move properly causing the same problem.
 
Not sure, but I know on the steel plates there is a smooth side and a rough side. I was always taught to put the smooth side down towards the engine. Would this be a possible issue if it was flipped?
 
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