2015 ktm350 engine imperfection?

loneranger171

loneranger171

PR Addict
Just picked this up from original owner who got in may and probably has under 6 hours on the bike. Got home and was checking out the bike and how it's made and stumbled on this... Imperfections from machining or something else? Anyone else with similar engine have same look??
Thx

IMG_20150720_124842992.jpg
 
What you are seeing on the outside of the casting is from something called “surface heat checking”.

The casting you are referencing is made via the “high pressure die casting process”.

Surface heat checking is something that happens to the steel used in tools (molds) during the high pressure die casting process and is expected.

In high pressure die casting, aluminum is forced into the steel tool (mold) at temperatures exceeding 1220 deg F (660C). It’s then rapidly cooled via internal cooling channels in the mold to solidify the charge. The mold then opens and the solidified aluminum part is extracted. Within seconds, the mold closes and is once again forced full of molten metal. This continuous, rapid heating / cooling cycle is very detrimental to the surface finish of the molds surface. Over time – say 50,000 – 100,000 shots the steel used in the mold begins to develop micro fissures on the surface. With each subsequent shot (heat/cool cycle) the steel begins to erode away more and more.

What look like “cracks” in the casting is actually extra material. The extra material is there because it’s filled the cracks that are now on the outside of the molds surface because the mold has some slight surface heat checking.

Bottom line…..normal thing that happens, nothing to be worried about. No loss in part performance or integrity.


BTW: Congrats on the new ride, enjoy!
 
MarctheSharc said:
What you are seeing on the outside of the casting is from something called “surface heat checking”.

The casting you are referencing is made via the “high pressure die casting process”.

Surface heat checking is something that happens to the steel used in tools (molds) during the high pressure die casting process and is expected.

In high pressure die casting, aluminum is forced into the steel tool (mold) at temperatures exceeding 1220 deg F (660C). It’s then rapidly cooled via internal cooling channels in the mold to solidify the charge. The mold then opens and the solidified aluminum part is extracted. Within seconds, the mold closes and is once again forced full of molten metal. This continuous, rapid heating / cooling cycle is very detrimental to the surface finish of the molds surface. Over time – say 50,000 – 100,000 shots the steel used in the mold begins to develop micro fissures on the surface. With each subsequent shot (heat/cool cycle) the steel begins to erode away more and more.

What look like “cracks” in the casting is actually extra material. The extra material is there because it’s filled the cracks that are now on the outside of the molds surface because the mold has some slight surface heat checking.

Bottom line…..normal thing that happens, nothing to be worried about. No loss in part performance or integrity.


BTW: Congrats on the new ride, enjoy!
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Thanks Marc ur like a encyclopedia there on ur explanation awesome! Glad I'm good to go thx hope to see you out riding sometime soon
 
loneranger171 said:
Thanks Marc ur like a encyclopedia there on ur explanation awesome! Glad I'm good to go thx hope to see you out riding sometime soon
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.....We build high pressure die casting tools (molds).

I think you're gonna dig that 350 SX.

And yes, like Bill says... if the looks bother you, you can take a Dremel and remove the extra material and then buff with Scotch Brite.
 
Sorry to change the intended direction of this thread but how are you Sharc?
Glad to hear you on here
My son loves his 350 and I know you where digging yours
You up to riding again?
 
Hey TPMX! Long time….

I don’t think anyone is going to mind a little friendly chat between us…

Trying to ease back into riding, actually I have no other choice. Can’t come back full-tilt-boogie at 53.

Leg is being a little stubborn to heal up all the way so that’s still a work in progress.

Plus, I’ve been inactive so long now that my entire body needs to come back around to being able to handle the abuse I like to put it through.

I did a Wed. night Smith Rd a few weeks ago and had a good time. Had a ball riding 3 sessions last weekend at Malvern’s Sat A.M. open ride and still feel like a pretzel today.

Yep – still love the 350.

Are you still on top the 250SX ?

Ya been to Y-town this year? How is it?
 
Good to hear from ya Sharc!!
yeh still on the 250sx and lovin it NOW
Wasnt likin it in the beginning,couldnt come to terms with anything about the hit or cornering
Adjusted to the motor somewhat but still wont turn like all my Rms did.Almost went back to a RMZ but held out
I really like how it jumps and how light it feels
We have been to Y-town several times,Down to Beans and a couple others then the rain started
If no Malvern Wed headed to Y-Town
See at the track somewhere soon I hope
You take care
 
Sorry to jump in on you guys, but gotta put in my 2 cents on 250 SX cornering! First, TPMX where are your fork tubes set at? Triple clamps at 18 or 22 offset? How adamant are you about getting up on the tank while cornering? Do you drag the front brake?

I struggled laying mine over into ruts and getting it to follow them well, then I tried a couple things some buddies suggested. Get up on the tank! I'm talking nuts on the gas cap. Come into the corner with a little more speed than usual and be looking to the apex of the rut to lay it into. But the biggest improvement for me was learning to drag the front brake (VERY SLIGHTLY lol) through a rut/corner. This did wonders once I figured out how much to drag it (had to learn the hard way a couple times!).

Of course it's all rider preference on set up, I've always struggled with corners because I have more sag than most and really stiff forks because I would rather sacrifice losing the front end in a corner vs. getting pitched off at high speeds, gotta have my stability!
 
Thanks for the input,I have to get out of the rm cornering and try more of what you suggest
I do get up on the tank but do fail to ride the front brake much
Sounds like it would help keep that front tire digging
What offset seemed to work best of the 4?
Im going to do some trial setup work before I go riding this weekend see how things go
 
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KTMkarl794 said:
Of course it's all rider preference on set up, I've always struggled with corners because I have more sag than most and really stiff forks because I would rather sacrifice losing the front end in a corner vs. getting pitched off at high speeds, gotta have my stability
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I struggled with my 450 WP crap and bought Ohlins. Without the Ohlins it cornered like you are saying.

Reduce your sag and get more weight on your front end.
 
KTMkarl794 said:
Sorry to jump in on you guys, but gotta put in my 2 cents on 250 SX cornering! First, TPMX where are your fork tubes set at? Triple clamps at 18 or 22 offset? How adamant are you about getting up on the tank while cornering? Do you drag the front brake?

I struggled laying mine over into ruts and getting it to follow them well, then I tried a couple things some buddies suggested. Get up on the tank! I'm talking nuts on the gas cap. Come into the corner with a little more speed than usual and be looking to the apex of the rut to lay it into. But the biggest improvement for me was learning to drag the front brake (VERY SLIGHTLY lol) through a rut/corner. This did wonders once I figured out how much to drag it (had to learn the hard way a couple times!).

Of course it's all rider preference on set up, I've always struggled with corners because I have more sag than most and really stiff forks because I would rather sacrifice losing the front end in a corner vs. getting pitched off at high speeds, gotta have my stability!
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Great advice... I never seem to think what I'm doing when I'm riding and I found ur help quite funny so now on every corner I'm going to yell nuts on the tank right b4 the apex!
 
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