@ahrma479 that is some of the most backwoods hillbilly ass s**t I have ever read and 100% why I love the internet. Hopefully SuperTrapp has moved onto someone who knows what the hell they are talking about.
In the meantime
@Jyoung7593 I'm going to break down the use of high octane gas and remapping for you. Your motor is set up from the factory to run properly on 93 unleaded pump fuel. Can it run on leaded 110 fuel. Sure, but a couple of things to consider. Motors built when lead gasoline was sold out of the pump regularly, run great on it and need it for lubricity reasons. Modern 4 strokes are designed around unleaded fuel and have many internal coatings only a few microns thick that will be stripped with the use of lead over prolonged use. Pretty much every modern 4 stroke dirt bike has hardened valve seats and doesn't need the added lubrication.
Now in terms of the added octane rating, unless you are significantly going up in compression or are experiencing detonation (which you shouldn't as pretty much every modern efi system has some sort of knock sensor on it), you don't need the added octane. Simply put, the higher octane, the harder it is for the fuel to ignite. So where ahrma was claiming it made it run rich, the term he should of used was "burning incompletely". Stoich levels of say 110 fuel are somewhere around 13.7, while industry standard for generic pump 93 are around 14.7. So it can be confused for running richer than pump gas without the proper ECM changes. Rule of thumb: Run the lowest octane fuel that keeps the motor out of detonation.
Onto remap why? Pretty much every modern efi bike out right now, comes mapped off the showroom floor rich. Manufactures err on the side of caution knowing it may increase engine longevity, but there are gains to be made even in stock form in terms of power and rideability. Introducing additional air into the motor (i.e. cams, air intakes) is going to throw your Air to Fuel Ratio out of whack. Enough to cause drastic issues, probably not for something like the baby hotcams, but once again, there are gains to be made when tuned correctly. And this is where Ahrma took his final tumble in suggesting if you had a carb bike to adjust your jetting and fuel screw. Tuning your ECM is nothing more than adjusting the jetting electronically. Having a properly mapped bike for your engine configuration, for a proper a/f ratio, even in stock form, makes a noticeable difference. A/F can be obtained by the aforementioned 02 sensor in the headpipe. Which not hard to buy an extra headpipe, have an 02 bung welded into it, and use something like.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm1.php
And if you don't want to do the headpipe method, they make and adapter that fits right into the muffler (not ideal, but will get you close). And yes applying some type of load at speed is ideal. There are a few shops that I know of in Northern Ohio that have dynos that will allow you to control the load electronically.
And Ahrma, your non epa vs epa argument still has me puzzled. If you're suggesting, that just because the scooters we're racing on are non epa bikes, they shouldn't be tuned, well then I guess none of the drag bikes or cars at Norwalk should be either.
As far as tuning a stock ECU, you can have someone like a Tokyo Mods load pre canned tunes onto it, will it be right for your configuration, hard to say. If you really want to dial it in, Purchasing something like a vortex ecu, that allows for infinite tuning options is really the way to go, and there is a gentlemen right down the road, DH1 Mods (Brandon Hass), that knows his s**t on the tuning them.
Total guess as I don't know the history on the bike or every mod done too it, but if you weren't losing coolant or noticing any white smoke, my money is on the leaded high octane fuel being the culprit. Plug readings are also a good reference point to see how you're running. Post a picture of the plug.