NQ1965
PR Elite
Man your bikes look amazing. I don't know how you keep them looking so new.
Team Green....Kawasaki !
- Thread starter NQ1965
- Start date
Man your bikes look amazing. I don't know how you keep them looking so new.
I know know how he keeps them so clean! I hauled one of them to Louisiana once he rode it a half of lap, then rode a maico the rest of the weekend!lol
NQ1965
PR Elite
Here's a couple of pic's of the flywheel puller I threw together.
It got the flywheel off without a problem, but it would of been much better if the center bolt were fine thread.
I used a socket between the bolt and the flywheel shaft to keep from doing any damage to the crank shaft.
It got the flywheel off without a problem, but it would of been much better if the center bolt were fine thread.
I used a socket between the bolt and the flywheel shaft to keep from doing any damage to the crank shaft.
NQ1965
PR Elite
I made special note of the position of the ignition mag position.
I lucked out that the cases split fairly easy and didn't have to use a puller. A little nudging with a rubber mallet, a scraper blade and a screwdriver.
The crank seals made their impression on the crank shaft but not significantly grooved. You can't even really feel it by touch. I'll find out exactly how much wear I have with the micrometer.
I actually enjoy this part of the process, but it's difficult because I just don't have enough time to be doing it. You just can't hurry and attention to details is critical. Again, I have to take lot's and lots of pictures just in case it I'm off of the project for a number of days (or weeks).
I lucked out that the cases split fairly easy and didn't have to use a puller. A little nudging with a rubber mallet, a scraper blade and a screwdriver.
The crank seals made their impression on the crank shaft but not significantly grooved. You can't even really feel it by touch. I'll find out exactly how much wear I have with the micrometer.
I actually enjoy this part of the process, but it's difficult because I just don't have enough time to be doing it. You just can't hurry and attention to details is critical. Again, I have to take lot's and lots of pictures just in case it I'm off of the project for a number of days (or weeks).
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misstheflip
PR Member
That’s right....the ignition coil fried, but at least the fenders still shined with SC1!
NQ1965
PR Elite
Speaking of Maico's, I would love to see a thread started on them. There probably isn't a better member to get it going than you Mike. You've sort of become the authority for Maico's. And we have several members that have them.
Some things in life you just never forget. I was 15 yrs old when I read Dirt Bike magazines test article on the 81 490 Mega 2. I was in total awe.
NQ1965
PR Elite
Ok so another issue I ran into and this is not a new one, been here before. As I was working on splitting the case the tiresome issue of phillips head screws caused me some heartburn. I have a hand impact driver but as usual the phillips bits I had for it didn't fit the screw heads well enough to break them loose without rounding off. I have a large craftsman phillips screwdriver that does fit the screw heads good and I did manage to break all the screws loose by hammer tapping while turning.
I will need to replace all of these screws for reassembly, and recall reading in other rebuild post where they replaced them with hex head Allen screws.
Can one of you guys give me some info on getting the right size screws to replace them? I know they sell the replacement screw kits, but there's only a couple sizes needed and I'll need quite a few of them.
I will need to replace all of these screws for reassembly, and recall reading in other rebuild post where they replaced them with hex head Allen screws.
Can one of you guys give me some info on getting the right size screws to replace them? I know they sell the replacement screw kits, but there's only a couple sizes needed and I'll need quite a few of them.
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NQ1965
PR Elite
For the amateur rebuilders (like me) reading this dribble of mine, another helpful tip is that you don't have to fly blind in all of this. Two suggestions I highly stress is if possible get maintenance/repair manuals if available, and then also utilize the O.E.M parts breakdown drawings available on the internet. These have saved my butt on more than one occasion. You don't have to be an expert if you know how to use available information and details.
JUST DO IT !
JUST DO IT !
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NQ1965
PR Elite
I was at my local Advance auto parts store yesterday getting oil for the cars and mowers. While there I browsed their tools selection and found a puller that would of worked on my flywheel. None of the bolts included were the correct size for my flywheel so I would of needed to get them elsewhere, but the puller looks like it would of worked. I went ahead and bought it, was like $18.00.
MarctheSharc
PR Founding Father
flywheel puller - $10.00 - you can find them everywhere -
NQ1965
PR Elite
On the issue of seals wearing on shafts, you probably already know this but it's worth a repeat, there are several industrial bearing manufacturers that offer seal sleeves as a repair option. Not sure how it would work on a crankshaft or if anybody on here has ever used them for that application but it may be your only solution if it's on an engine that you can't find another crank for.
MarctheSharc
PR Founding Father
Using a Phillips on JIS is a no-no
JIS will sit in a Phillips.
But a Phillips is not really contacting correctly in a JIS.
The hand impact should be all you need - Get the correct bit
MarctheSharc
PR Founding Father
I found this on the WEB when I typed in Kawasaki junk screws ---LOL!!!!!
Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) Screws
I always thought the screws on my Kawasaki where made of soft cheap metal, because I always was rounding out the heads with my screwdrivers and I have replaced a lot of them with allen heads. As tool geek I was shocked when I finally learned the truth; I have been using the wrong screwdriver on every screw on the bike. These screws and all screws that have a dot on head are Japanese crosspoints and you need the proper drivers. Available here and here.
Here are some examples of the screws with a dot and these are just from the carburetor. As you can see some of these have already been damaged by the wrong tool.
Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) Screws
I always thought the screws on my Kawasaki where made of soft cheap metal, because I always was rounding out the heads with my screwdrivers and I have replaced a lot of them with allen heads. As tool geek I was shocked when I finally learned the truth; I have been using the wrong screwdriver on every screw on the bike. These screws and all screws that have a dot on head are Japanese crosspoints and you need the proper drivers. Available here and here.
Here are some examples of the screws with a dot and these are just from the carburetor. As you can see some of these have already been damaged by the wrong tool.
NQ1965
PR Elite
That's very interesting. I've never heard of JIS or knew there was such a difference.
Looking back at the photos though it looks like all of the screw heads are an open style of Phillips.
The Phillips head screwdriver that I have has a broad yet blunted tip, and it seem to be a good fit. I didn't have any rounding off issues while using it. It's just hard to break the screws loose with it without tapping or pounding on it while turning.
I remember a thread from a couple of years ago on this where Georgie commented that the problem when your rounding off screw heads is a result that the Phillips tip is too long and is bottoming out in the screw without being fully seated in all of the side slots of the screw head. I learned something I didn't realize from that conversation as well.
Definitely need the correct bits for my hand impact driver. Good info!
Looking back at the photos though it looks like all of the screw heads are an open style of Phillips.
The Phillips head screwdriver that I have has a broad yet blunted tip, and it seem to be a good fit. I didn't have any rounding off issues while using it. It's just hard to break the screws loose with it without tapping or pounding on it while turning.
I remember a thread from a couple of years ago on this where Georgie commented that the problem when your rounding off screw heads is a result that the Phillips tip is too long and is bottoming out in the screw without being fully seated in all of the side slots of the screw head. I learned something I didn't realize from that conversation as well.
Definitely need the correct bits for my hand impact driver. Good info!
NQ1965
PR Elite
Wow....
So I have to think that when they assemble these engines that their tooling is set up for a certain torque setting as well. And of course they are using the correct driver for the fastener used.
How do bike shops re-torque a JIS or Phillips screw when doing repair or rebuild work?
So I have to think that when they assemble these engines that their tooling is set up for a certain torque setting as well. And of course they are using the correct driver for the fastener used.
How do bike shops re-torque a JIS or Phillips screw when doing repair or rebuild work?
NQ1965
PR Elite
flywheel puller - $10.00 - you can find them everywhere -
I have one of these pullers that I bought for when I did my Yamaha MX250. But if I'm remembering correctly my KDX didn't have the internal threads for it. (threads where the 24mm and 27mm are shown).
I'll double check tonight when I get home.
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MarctheSharc
PR Founding Father
With the proper bit -!!
MarctheSharc
PR Founding Father
Most folks don't
Ah - that's a no ....
Any broad that let's you phillips with a screwdriver is a good fit. Just not so much when she's got a Japanese head.
Stop - "Georgie said what" ??? .... Just stop....
