Maintenance schedules

My husky:

Books says every 1.0 hours change oil. I use belray with ester. Top shelf s**t. Change every 3 hours. 1 hour it doesnt look used. Hell after 3 it comes out still mostly blue with a slight grey hue. Probably could get away with 10 hours with that oil.

Change oil filter with every oil change.
Also do the fuel filter with every oil change.

theres no way that manual says 1 hr on oil change. hell my honda manual i think says 10 which is a no thank you...

No it does. Ha. Crazy.

Um - The Husky "Book" says do it once after the first hour - then every 10.

Please let someone else hand out the meds....
 
Yea. Once after first operating hour. Then “every 10 operating hours/after every race”

Misread that. I suppose you could argue after every 10 minutes considering that’s all we race. Ha
 
Are some of you guys saying to CLEAN the air filter or REPLACE the filter every so often?
I have never started a bike that did not have a clean filter in it. Unless I stall during a moto. Other than that it get cleaned between every moto and obviously every ride.
That Notoil stuff is awesome. Washes out all the dirt and crap in 30 seconds. Hairdryer for 2 minuets re-oil and back in. Why would you not use it?
Used that nasty bell-Rey crap back in the day and hated it. But it does work. Just a pain to work with.
 
2017 crf450. Oil is changed every 7 hours, using genuine Honda synthetic oil. Air filter gets changed every ride, no if ands or buts. Valves are bout to get checked bc I’m coming up on 20hrs.
 
We use the Honda Gn4, 10w40 non synthetic, twin air filters PJ1 foam oil, bel ray water proof grease.
18 Crf250r (kids bike, Rookie 135lbs) air filter as needed, oil around every 5 hours, all chassis bearings cleaned and lubed every 15-20 hrs. Valves are checked every 15 but have only needed shimmed once at the first check from break in. He put 60 hours on this bike this year, bearings have zero movement, he’s on his second clutch. Bike is getting a top end after Sunday. Still runs strong it’s just due. It will get a crank, top end, and head service next winter.
18crf450r (230lb rookie) same as the 250 except the top end. Planning on opening it at 100 hours unless it gives me a reason. Theres 45 hours on it now. Due for a clutch.
 
Man hard on the clutches. I haven’t had to replace a clutch in any of my bikes currently.
You realize the stock clutches in the newer Honda’s are absolute junk, right? One of the first things recommended for the 17+ crf’s Are to ditch the stock clutch immediately and go with an aftermarket.
 
Used to work at a company that specialized in base formulation additives packages (detergents, dispersants, friction modifiers, and viscosity modifiers). The ratio is likely similar to modern engine oils for cars, what used to be 3,000 miles is now 10,000. 333% increase in longevity while offering the same protection. What used to be a 5hr oil change is now closer to 15. Lots of variables and everyone’s risk tolerance varies. My data driven approach was oil replacement in the 450sxf every 12hrs (sandy MI soil, more trail than track)
 
Never tried the Notoil. You guys like it? Might have to give it a shot.

Their website has a lot of good info. I heard on a podcast somewhere when they first started they even tried using honey as filter oil so they could wash it out. Lol really cool company.


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ive been using it for years, i really like it. i use oil i just dump on out of a bottle, never was a fan of any aerosol air filter oil for some reason.... you just have to make sure you're using their cleaner/oil together and it works very well.

ive used their air filters too for a while, i wouldnt put them up there w/ the other top air filter manufacturers, but youll get a good season out of them for sure. I've recently picked up some of their chain lube.. haven't formed an opinion on that yet lol. It sprays on very thin, but has a lot of great reviews... I think I've only rode once since getting it.

oxyclean is a good substitute for their cleaner as well, or probably any powdered laundry detergent

and i usually just buy a new filter because lazy. thats why i have a garbage bag full of dirty ones

at your rate that should last you the next 18 years...

you missed it at the end of the year, i went to smith at least 4 times! (maybe twice). still havent washed the bike though. i did put air in the mtb tires, been trying to get myself up to rays but now im insurance-less until feb1
 
I used to go a little over 30 hrs on a top end prior to FI. 2014 yz250f torn down at 30 hrs with really light riding and It was worn a bit more than expected. I wouldn't want to push any modern 250f to 40 hrs personally.

Ive heard this story on Rotella, but Im also running on the older formula. Any one running the newer stuff without issue?
 
I used to go a little over 30 hrs on a top end prior to FI. 2014 yz250f torn down at 30 hrs with really light riding and It was worn a bit more than expected. I wouldn't want to push any modern 250f to 40 hrs personally.

Ive heard this story on Rotella, but Im also running on the older formula. Any one running the newer stuff without issue?

i have been running it, but I have thought to myself a few times that the shifting felt a little notchy and other people complained about that w/ the newer stuff after reading other threads, so I'm putting 2 and 2 together and going to blame the oil for that. I think im going to switch and just add another hour to my schedule before changing it.
 
i have been running it, but I have thought to myself a few times that the shifting felt a little notchy and other people complained about that w/ the newer stuff after reading other threads, so I'm putting 2 and 2 together and going to blame the oil for that. I think im going to switch and just add another hour to my schedule before changing it.
now that i think of it it was kind of a bitch to find neutral on the last ride

fuuuuu rotella dreams r over
 
In simple terms, your maintenance schedule is based on your speed. Generally, the faster you are, the more often maintenance needs done.

Think of it as time and stress as factors in the formula.

A maintenance schedule can be formulated based on the severity of stress and the ranking of that stress.

Any load on the bike is stress. A small example of load and the severity rating follows:

Scale of 1 to 10
The bike sitting clean in a climate controlled ideal environment, prepared for storage is rated as a 1.

In contrast, a bike sitting dirty in a damp cold garage, not prepared for storage is rated at 7.

A skilled rider on a slow pace trail ride with now dust, no bumps, and keeping the engine (and all systems)at ideal temperatures, for a short period of time is about the least amount of stress a bike could be under in actual operation and still using it for its intended purpose. That would be rated at 2.

Now, opposite to that is a skilled rider on a moto track that is knarly, muddy, with some sand mixed in. All systems are being taxed to their fullest potential for a long period of time, say 35 minutes. Rating, 9

You could also look at it in terms of RPM and not just thinking about crankshaft rotation.
The more the rpm and the higher the load, the closer the parts are to fatigue failure.

After all that, my maintenance schedule is evolving as I get older and ultimately slower.
When I first stated riding again 10 years ago, I learned ( the hard way, a few times) I had to do full rebuilds before 55 hours. Crank bearings were failing around 60 hours. 3 rd and 4th gear was also failing near the same time. I was naive about the maintenance of the new fart bikes as I had not rode for 13 years prior to owning one.

The last couple years I have extended my rebuild intervals to 65 hours.

In my experience the top end is living as long as the bottom so the head gets a full rebuild at the same time as the bottom end.

This what u get when I’m riding shotgun to a basketball tourney.
 
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